The purpose of this blog is having a conversation about costume design, fashion and everything in between. How certain piece of clothes or outfits influence fashion or trending choices for everyday clothing.
Starting with a collection of iconic outfits is probably the most obvious choice but at the same time is quite on point, if we are trying to understand how the link among pop culture, fashion and movies is so strong.
When I started thinking about this post, of course, my main concern was Which outfits I am going to choose?
The inevitable answer was: Anything that would recall the movie at the first sight.
And because even TV Series are now a fundamental piece of pop culture, why not bringing up two iconic looks from the small screen?
Another common denominator for almost all these outfits? They are among the most popular choices for Halloween costumes. (Try yourself googling!)
I need to be honest here, the choice was strenuously hard, I reckon I left behind so many piece of clothing or outfits that probably I should write another post or two.
1. Akeem Joffer (& Semmi), Varsity Jacket - Coming to America (1988)
Directed by: John Landis
Costume Design by: Deborah Nadoolman Landis
Cast: Eddie Murphy, Arsenio Hall
The varsity jacket Akeem (and Semmi) wears in Coming to America is fundamental in 80s pop culture, it is so iconic that Ruth E. Carter decided to reprise it in an appearance in the sequel that came out a couple of months ago, Coming 2 America (available on Amazon). The ensambles the prince and his assistant wear when moving to New York (suit, coat and hat) are basics for the character, highlighting the men's status. What is iconic and essential in these two tacky jackets it's the key for Akeem and Semmi blending with New York life. Or at least what they think will be purposeful for. On a detached and disenchanted eye the men look like some kind of wannabe newyorkers tourists and for a non American person, the varsity is a strong element of the American culture. But still, you cannot think to the movie without thinking about the varsity and viceversa. Ladoolman Landis worked strongly researching African tradition and cultures to come out with her vast range of Zamunda's fine costumes ending with a well deserved nomination at the Oscars for Best Costume Design. Personally I am a big fan of the pink wedding dress Lisa wears at the end of the movie, even if I admit it's not extremely iconic as the jackets or the suits.
Fun fact 1: Beyoncé loved the costumes so much, she rented one and never returned it.
Fun fact 2: during Black Panther filming, Lupita Nyong'o throw her birthday party on a Coming to America theme.
2. The Girl, White Halter-neck Dress - The Seven Year Itch (1954)
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| ph: theplaylist.net |
Costume Design by: William Travilla
Cast: Marilyn Monroe, Tom Ewell
Hands down, The White Dress™ is one of the most iconic piece of clothing, ever. When you figure Marilyn in your mind you figure her wearing this outfit, or you lie.
It is the second most expensive dress sold in an auction (funny enough, the most expensive is another Marilyn dress, the infamous Happy Birthday Mr. President piece). Before that, it was part of a memorabilia collection owned by Debbie Reynolds.
The actual color of the dress is ivory, since the movie is shot in black and white, Travilla had to play with nuances to ensure it would come up in a nice white on film and to avoid a not nice shade of gray. The choice of white is to highlight The Girl supposed innocence, still, because of the (in)famous scene on the grate, that innocence is mixed up with her being sexy, hence the cut and the details (bare shoulders and back).
There are clear reference and inspiration to Ancient Greece and it is designed to ease the movements.
The dress is so tied with the subway grate scene that you can't separate them anymore, the general audience, the less cinephile one, recognize the movie. They both come in a single package and this why a movie costume can be iconic and obvious proof how a piece of clothing could be a fundamental part of a movie. You wouldn't have the grate scene without the Silly White Dress (quoting Travilla) and you wouldn't have the dress without the grate scene.
Scene that played a big role in the divorce between Monroe and Joe DiMaggio and so fundamental in cinema history that was reprised multiple times, from Kelly LeBrock in Woman in Red to Fiona in Shrek.
3. Joliet Blues & Elwood Blues, Suit - The Blues Brothers (1980)
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| ph: Universal |
Costume Design by: Deborah Nadoolman Landis
Cast: Dan Aykroyd, John Belushi
The Blues Brothers' suit it is another legendary outfit that is not just iconic among cinephiles but it's a strong and essential part of Western pop culture. Again, if you ask anyone, even those who didn't watch the film, they can immediately recognize what we are talk about.
And this outfit is clear proof that it's not necessary pull out some kind of extraordinary piece to hit the audience. This is one of the most basic outfits.
Refined by Nadoolman Landis from Belushi & Aykroyd costumes in their Saturday Night Live pieces, the outfit it is the calm and the consistency in the chaos that whole movie represents. Not a single change for them, the simplicity of this plain black and white clashes against the anarchy running in the film.
The idea of Nadoolman Landis was to recreate a modern and blues version of Laurel & Hardy.
Probably the most iconic piece of the outfit it's the sunglasses. RayBan stopped producing Wayfarer before the movie production and it was challenging for the costume designer finding them, she had to scavenge among flea markets and John Belushi was giving them away to flirt with girls. Because of the huge impact after the movie, the brand reprised the production.
4. Cher Horowitz, Yellow Plaid Ensemble - Clueless (1995)
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| ph: Paramount Pictures |
Costume Design by: Mona May
Cast: Alicia Silverstone, Stacey Dash
This is probably THE (older) Millennials' iconic outfit.
One of the most popular Halloween costumes, the yellow plaid has influenced fashion in the past 25 years.
Mona May worked hard to try to find a balance between teenager style and wealthy style: all the kids are rich, but she wanted to create a range of wardrobe that could be recreated easily by "regular" teens.
The original yellow outfit is by Dolce & Gabbana, but after the movie we could find more affordable versions of it in quite a few chains.
May also worked towards a transition from grunge style, super popular in early '90 to a more feminine one. And the plaid print choice it's quite symbolic.
Quoting Alicia Silverstone in an interview: "The clothes are the star of the film." This is very true and another huge innovation brought by the movie is this new relationship between young people and High Street fashion brands.
5. Holly Golightly, Little Black Dress - Breakfast at Tiffany's (1961)
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| ph: Shutterstock |
Costume Design by: Edith Head
Cast: Audrey Hepburn, George Peppard
This dress, exactly like Marilyn's white dress is so tied with Audrey Hepburn's image.
When we mention Hepburn we think about her dressed in black, with pearl necklace, eating a croissant in front of a jewelry store. This picture is imprinted in the collective's mind. And even when re-interpreted (as in Big Little Lies series) with slightly different details, everyone knows where the idea is coming from.
Behind what we know as a master of the Little Black Dress genre, there is a slightly different design by Givenchy. The original idea is a shorter dress, Head decided to retouch it with a longer length, to accomodate the American puritan taste.
Another clear example where simplicity wins: a clean design, no frills; still after 60 years, everyone knows what we are talking about and it is perfectly in trend. The first LBD was designed by Coco Chanel and it was considered revolutionary, after Breakfast at Tiffany's, it changes its status in iconic and a must have piece for every woman.
The whole ensemble, dress, pearls, sunglasses are symbolic when describing Holly Golightly. Giving herself and the audience the idea she is a glamorous it girl, when she is actually an underdog.
6. Dorothy Gale, Gingham Pinafore and Sequin Red Shoes - Wizard of Oz (1939)
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| ph: V&A |
Costume Design by: Adrian
Cast: Judy Garland
Here we are with probably a proper iconic ensemble, probably the red sequin shoes are more iconic than the pinafore itself. So iconic that V&A chose them for the promo material of their exhibition on Hollywood Costume.
The color of the shoes was chosen to highlight the new Technicolor technology, originally in the book they were silver.
An interesting fact, and quite symbolic: Kent Warner, a costume worker, was appointed to destroy all the copies of the shoes used in the movie, instead he smuggled them to later sell them. He used that money to pay his medical bills, because he was sick with AIDS; Wizard of Oz is known to be a quite strong gay icon movie, such as Judy Garland herself. 
Again, we find symbolism and iconicity in simplicity: the clean lines of the outfit represent Dorothy's childhood and the choice not to change her outfit has a meaning behind: it shows how much Dorothy wants to go back home, the pinafore is her tie to home. The simplicity of the kid's outfit is in clear contrast with the eccentric outfits of Oz's inhabitants.
Directed by: Jim Sharman
Costume Design by: Sue Blane
Cast: Tim Curry, Susan Sarandon
Blane designed the costumes for the original theatre play and the movie.
This whole outfit is iconic for cinema history, punk history and gay iconography.
Frank n' Further image is still used as a symbol for breaking boundaries of binarism and gender fluidity, it is iconic but in a very revolutionary way.
Clearly, the main character look is in sharp contrast with squeaky clean Brad and Janet: a gender fluid punk versus straight edge couple.
The whole range of costumes of the movies is pretty strong and iconic: to today, not only replicated for Halloween but in parties, sing-a-long events, cosplay.
8. Lorelei Lee, Pink Dress - Gentlemen prefer blondes (1953)
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| ph: tomandlorenzo.com |
Costume Design by: William Travilla
Cast: Marilyn Monroe, Jane Russell
Another Marilyn iconic look: in this case not only tied to a movie, but also a song, Diamonds are a Girl's Best Friends. They all come in a whole, single idea, you can't separate one from another.
This dress was a last minute change to the original idea, Travilla had to come up with this impromptu alternative, the original design was quite revealing: nude dress encrusted with diamonds but when a bunch of old photos of a very naked Marilyn, the production decided to go with something more "discrete". The dress is designed like an architecture, but it stays quite simple, the bow it is actually part of the dress and not a piece assembled separately.
Like Hepburn's Black dress, this is another kind of outfit that won't ever go out of style.
And again, like her White Dress and Hepburn's Black Dress, there are countless homages and references. There is even a Barbie celebrating this moment.
One of the most famous homages is Madonna's music video of Material Girl, she embraces the symbolism behind the color and accessories choice of feminine power, sexuality and control.
While there is a more recent homage, Harley Quinn's Birds of Prey, where the dress becomes a jumpsuit and the symbolism is re-read in a more violent key.
9. Beatrix Kiddo, Yellow Jumpsuit - Kill Bill Vol.1 (2003)
Costume Design by: Kumiko Ogawa and Catherine Thomas
Cast: Uma Thurman, David Carradine
This iconic look is inspired from Bruce Lee's last, incomplete movie: Game of Death. There are lots of parallels between the original movie's scenes and Kill Bill.
This is a kind of unique case where the tribute becomes the icon.
The jacket represents in some ways the individual power; though, there is controversy about the choice of the yellow, explained as a link to the mistreatment of Asian people in America.
(Yellow) Onitsuka Tiger shoes have been quite iconic when the movie came out, they were a must to wear.
10. Harley Quinn, Hot Pants, Tshirt & Jacket - Suicide Squad (2016)
Directed by: David Hayer
Costume Design by: Kate Hawley
Cast: Margot Robbie, Will Smith
One of the most recent iconic looks, of course comes from cinecomics.
Suicide Squad Harley Quinn's cosplays populated Comic Cons for a while.
This outfit is quite different from the comics' ones, but we can observe a natural evolution to the cinematographic media. The dichotomy colors is in place, with details that recalls the comics' Harlequin vibes, plus slightly more comfy pieces.
The outfit is, no doubts, sexy, but Ayes and Hawley wanted a "don't give a f*ck" kind of sexy, where Harley dresses like this because she wants to have fun, not to please men. Even she is in a toxic relationship with Joker, (Daddy's Little Monster tshirt and Pudding chocker) she owns herself.
The choice to have one outfit throughout almost all the movie it's purely narrative: the story runs in a 24 hours timeframe, this could be a reason why it stuck so much with the audience.
And... +2
Nowadays TV Series are a fundamental part of pop culture, streaming services have pumped up the binge way of consuming this media, even if there are plenty of legendary series pre-binge.
I decided to go with two of my favourite ones, that are quite symbolic and well known as today.
Carrie Bradshaw, Tutu - Sex And The City (1998-2004)
Sarah Jessica Parker
Costume Department: Patricia Field
Costume Department: Patricia Field
This is another classic: mention Sex and the City or Carrie Bradshaw and your mind goes inevitably to the credits tutu. The very first (iconic) outfit of a very long series.
Patricia Field is able to tell a story with an outfit in just a bunch of seconds that introduce every episode.
A fluffy, pastel cloud among a sea of anonymous colours, the outfit represent the contrast between the rush of a never stopping city and a woman searching for love.
In a more general introspection about the symbolism of the tutu, the piece of clothing is a costume, not an usual skirt. Tutus are worn by ballerinas to put on a show, while Carrie uses it as a normal garment. She puts on a show in the middle of a extremely busy New York City street.
And it is even more funny how the piece of tulle is not the most expensive article in Carrie's closed. Clashing with the high end designer bags, shoes and dresses, Patricia Field found it in a sales bin in a department store for 5$.
Will Smith, Neon Stripes T-shirt - The Fresh Prince of Bel Air (1990-1996)
Will Smith
Costume Department: Judy Richman
Again another intro outfit. It was just a coincidence I've chosen two outfits that basically accompany the main characters of the series throughout the series in the credits.
But this is a sign of how much these clothings are impressed in minds.
As it is for Carrie, this bright neon T-shirt is emblematic for Will's personality, so out of contest from the Banks' environment, so put up and in certain way, dull. Will stays faithful to his essence, despite he grows during the years.
This has been a quite hard start, choosing only 10 outfits it was extremely difficult and I know better I've left behind a lot of them. But tell me, which are your top iconic outfits and why?
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